Magical Monopoli

It was by pure chance (and lack of money) that I was lucky enough to discover the clandestine haven, Monopoli.

On planning a group trip to Puglia, we had desperately been seeking an affordable Air BnB in Puglia's capital city, Bari- this however, was not an easy task. So, by some wonderful twist of fate, and the Air BnB mapping tool, we stumbled across the incredibly affordable, nearby town of Monopoli. Thus began a love affair which will last a lifetime.

On arrival, the first thing I noticed, were the houses which were pure white; one could be fooled into thinking they'd been transported to Greece. Our rooftop terrace overlooked the alabaster houses, and a clock tower loomed in the distance, tolling out solemn tones on the hour. In the very distance you could just make out the gentle glistening of the sea.

As it is an old fort town, you can still see part of the ancient balustrade which once surrounded the town. A wealth of history lies beyond it's borders, nowhere more so than in the narrow cobble-stoned streets. You don't know what you'll find around the next corner... One mellow evening I took it upon myself to explore this labyrinth of mystery. It's amazing what you can find when you're not looking. This fateful night, amongst the network of seemingly abandoned streets I was fortunate to stumble upon one of the most authentic Italian Osterie I have ever encountered- La Vecchia Taverna. The grotto-like interior was clad with warm stone walls and sported a slightly dingy ambience (this didn't put me off!). I insisted that we try it out that night...

On sitting down to eat, we were presented with a carafe of red wine about as long as my arm. The atmosphere was very much, 'alla famiglia'. The old lady who ran the kitchen would only cook double portions of a dish; each person could not have a separate dish. This was to ensure the quality and freshness of the food served. It felt like we had landed in an Italian household in which the Nonna ruled the roost.

My party were the last to leave, but instead of being rushed out, or made to feel bad, we were presented with complimentary Limoncello shots and Tiramisu in honour of the waiter's birthday. Towards the end of the night the old proprietor simply put his feet up and began to watch the football in the middle of the restaurant. Although, not everybody's idea of an elegant evening out, for me this is what a restaurant should be like; no pretention or stuffiness; just a home away from home.

Enough about food, I have to mention the coastline which surrounds this region. In terms of views, why would you want to go anywhere else, when just a short drive away there are an abundance of incredible seaside towns. One particularly notable place is Polignano a Mare, birthplace of Domenico Modugno, creator of that Eurovision classic, Nel Blu Dipinto di Blu (a.k.a. Volare). It's impossible not to envisage that mesmerising aquamarine coastline when listening to this!

Even closer to Monopoli, were some of the cleanest beaches I have ever seen. The sand was like powder (whether it sounds cliched or not). At the end of the day, when we decided to rock up after a day of sightseeing, the beach was completely deserted, the only sound you could hear was the waves lazily breaking over the sand. It was fantastic.

If this incredibly appreciative, though perhaps slightly Romanticised piece hasn't convinced you already, then there is no hope for you... If it has, then I hope that you will heed my advice, and as soon as you can, hop on a plane and head down Monopoli way. You won't regret it!

All photos in this post are Emerald Kimono originals