Tantalising Trieste

A few years ago I had the privilege of living in the stunning city of Trieste, and wanted to share a little homage to the place which I grew to love. Here is a list of the top five hidden treasures of a city which has captivated a plethora of British literary geniuses, from James Joyce to D H Lawrence.

1. Il Porto Vecchio (The Old Port)

This abandoned port blocked off to the public, generates an eerie yet exciting atmosphere if you are able to sneak inside. Local people tend to know secret ways of entry- in my case this involved clumsily climbing through a hole in a barbed wire fence. I recommend going at night (particularly if you enjoy spooky adventures) as once on the other side of the fence, you'll find yourself in a vast area filled with abandoned factories lining the pitch black water line. One source of light is the flashing green light emanating from the other side of the coastline; in true Gatsbian fashion. These derelict spaces, home to numerous creatures of the night have been featured in several Blockbuster films, including Marvel's The Invisible Boy and The English Patient. It is a magical place to explore or simply to sit by the water listening to the infinite lapping waves.

2. Castello di Miramare (Miramar Castle)

Although a lot more touristic than my previous suggestion, the Miramar Castle is still worth mentioning. This is the castle of fairy tales, perfect for princes and princesses alike. Take a walk along the scintillating waterside known as Barcola and gaze at the distant Triestine coastline. A couple of miles later you'll eventually come to the Castle. It is easy to get lost in its great gardens, amongst the trees and fountains. If you are feeling energetic, you can also climb to the top of one of Trieste's many hills, for an aerial view of the castle and the surrounding ocean.

3. Osmizza

Osmizza is an activity which is typical of the Friuli Venezia Giulia region, during which local people escape to the countryside to relax amongst vineyards and rolling hills, eating and drinking in the fresh air. There are many hidden restaurants which sell local wine, cured meats and cheeses, offering unlimited pleasure for the day. On the outskirts of Trieste in areas such as Gorizia, one could be fooled into thinking they were in the midst of the infamous Tuscan countryside (and for just a fraction of the price). Personally this experience is my idea of heaven, languishing with a large carafe of wine and local food, surrounded by abundant countryside.

4. Ausonia

For those of you who prefer nightlife, the open air night club Ausonia is a must visit. The source of the aforementioned elusive green light originates here, a symbol of hope for a great night ahead! Exclusively a Summer time club, you can dance by the sea all night, avoiding the sweaty, stuffy vibes of an indoor club. To start the night, take your aperitivi to the edge of the longest pier, known as Molo Audace- chat and watch the club lights dance over the sea. Surrounded by a buzz like you've never experienced before, you never know what the night is going to have in store ;)

5. San Giusto Cathedral and Castle

The best view of the city is from the top of the San Giusto hill, adorned with a Romanesque Cathedral (the oldest in the city) and it's historical Castle. I guarantee you won't have seen a cathedral or church with such intricate mosaic work before. The interior walls are clad from top to bottom in glistening golden and lilac mosaics. It is truly a spectacle to behold. Once you've breathlessly struggled up the hill on which these attractions lie, don't forget to visit the ancient castle, which can be found right next to the cathedral.

I could think of worse ways to spend lock down than daydreaming about your favourite places. There are so many places to explore- something you can even do from the comfort of your own home- I'll be posting more about great places to see, so stay tuned.

Did You Know?

James Joyce lived in Trieste for the best part of 15 years. This is where he came up with many of his ideas for Ulysses

'I cannot begin to give you the flavour of the old Austrian Empire. It was a ramshackle affair but it was charming, gay, and I experienced more kindnesses in Trieste than ever before or since in my life.’

James Joyce on Trieste

All photos in this post are Emerald Kimono originals